Building a NEW Deck for our Teacher! Part 2 of 3

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22 Replies to “Building a NEW Deck for our Teacher! Part 2 of 3”

  1. I use Vycor on any and all horizontal wood surfaces on decks.

    Cheap insurance to prevent water damage.

  2. Back in the day 30+ years ago in Humboldt County, CA, we did everything in Redwood: Posts, girders, joists, rim joists, decking, railings… not anymore. And we loved working with Old Growth, but that's nearly gone now. Now it's PT, cedar, or even fir depending on the area. Cedar is the new Redwood out here in California. We'd also space the ledger away from the building for drainage. Get this: I paid .55 a foot… that's 55 cents a lineal 2×6 foot! which is a board foot if you do the math, and it was gorgeous wood too, man. This was four decks, two second floor and two third floor, a stairway, and a landing.

  3. On the band that attaches to the house would they not let y’all use a 2×10 so you could just run a ledger strip and set the 2×8 on it those hangers are expensive and take way more time just wondering?

  4. Eric Oh “hammer drill” while hitting the wood with the base of the drill ????????????

  5. Is there a reason that you did not put a barrier between the rim board that contacted the slab? I know that it was green treated but I was always told to still install one. 8:04

  6. Question, why not use sonotubes and pour concrete above the grade and not worry or deal with the wood in soil?

  7. For the beam sitting on the posts have you guys ever used a Simpson post cap connector?

  8. Good video???? i'm an architect and i have a company we specialize in decks and mostly high end ones we use a lot of Composite decking (mostly Trex, Azek & duxxbak decking depending on the situation) what we always do when we can't use steel or composite joists, we use Joist guard or G-tape on the top of the structure. Most of those composite decking will last 25 year where the wood structure will only last about 10-15 years its not very expensive and its worth it, also i never butt joint board (they tend to lift after a while from my experience) so we always put a parting board. Anyway good stuff good installation and i love to see people going by manufacturers specs instead of going the "i've been doing this a long time i know what to do" type attitude!

  9. I do not understand why I find it so satisfying watching you guys build. Keep the vids coming.

  10. So you built a giant T-square using the old 6/8/10 rule. Everyone knows that. I would have been very impressed if you did it using the 8'4"/8'9"/12'1" rule. 🙂

  11. Why is there no attention to Rays face! That the first time in the channel he hasn't had a beard! – looks completely different.

  12. Palm nailers are great for joist hangers and hardware in general. Cost less than $100. Well worth it

  13. Not a carpenter, but other deck builds I've seen they have added zip tape to the top of the joists to extend the life of the wood underneath the decking.

  14. I haven’t really done any decks yet but I’m seeing the online community always posting pictures with joist tape. Any reason you didn’t use it? Cost option the customer didn’t want?

  15. Even if all the lumber was planed off exactly even – once the lumber dries out it will still be different sizes right? 🙁

  16. So if the joists are wider ( like 7 1/2 instead of 7 1/4) and you plane them to make them even, won't they be smaller when they dry out? There for causing a dip on those joists? Also, miter gauge not jig.

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