My excavator hasn’t tracked straight since I bought it. I finally dive in and try to repair it, and wow, it turns out to be a tough job.
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I don't consider myself an expert, but I've probably driven 50+ excavators (big and small, new and used) around dealership lots and rental yards, and I honestly can't say as I remember any of them tracking evenly. Obviously, the older and more worn they are, the worse that will get.
That said, I think that you might be spending a lot of time and money chasing something you may never be able to get completely right.
On the plus side, you are getting a class A education, and I appreciate you passing on your knowledge.
Where's the Johnson joke?
I'm not a Hydraulic genius but the Banana Bend to the right was not as bad as the Banana Bend to the Left (I think it was that way around) …… Why?????
My head tells me that you simply have wearing components and to have both on the same side results in less drive on that particular side.
I'd be putting the worn pump on the opposite side of the worm motor to try to obtain the straightest bananas possible then just put up with the difference because when actually working doing what the machine was made for it will be hardly noticed.
It would be cheaper to buy a trailer to move it longer distances!
Can you not adjust the linkage between the control stick and the spool valve to make the right side spool move a little less than the left?
Another nice video ????
I would try the following (maybe it will help):
1. I would switch to a 20W20 mineral oil (engine oil). This is a bit more viscous and seals internal leaks better. I use this in my 1995 wheel loader (with a Bosch Rexroth axial piston pump) with no problems. The only disadvantage below 5°C you should definitely warm up the machine.
2. If you really want to remove the "pumps" from your equation, then I would connect both pump lines together and feed them into one flow divider. Both circuits are now supplied with exactly the same volume and you can continue to examine the control block and the hub motors.
I would also test both hydraulic motors without a load (tracks off the ground or without tracks). If the drainage volume does not change, the motors are ok (for the age of the machine).
Possibly helpful:
The screw for your pump performance only preloads a spring. Your axial piston pump is always at maximum flow at low pressure (at const rpm). If you turn the screw in the direction of more power, the swash plate only moves out of the maximum stroke at higher pressure. Spring and pump pressure fight each other to move the swash plate. So your setting would only be noticeable from the point at which the P1&P2 pressure overrides the spring preload (just before the overpressure valve switches). In my opinion, the setting has no influence on the part-load volume flow when your excavator is driving. You would only notice it when pushing under heavy load.
You feather the levers to stay strait if one side is faster you slow down the fast side to stay strait it is cheaper than a valve or other parts
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Weeeeeell, you got a video outta the deal.
I am just guessing here , I bet you would get good use of a borescope . Some of these problems could be simply a slightly damaged o-ring , that you do not have a good way to examine.
the thing I'm learning from your videos is you don't let the thing beat you, if its not one thing it has to be the next one, that's great
Is it really intended to track straight just from the pumps, valves and motors being exactly matched? I'm not a hydraulic engineer, but that sounds to me like an unreasonable expectation on tolerances. Surely there must be some sort of per-side adjustment somewhere?
You know you could, not saying you should, get one of those cheep Chinese excavators for the price of a couple of drive motors and a pump. And when it breaks you'll have plenty of content for videos. Might be a damper on getting actual work done though.
My son put 60000 in education to learn this you very got2000 in a hyd engineer course