My wood garden fence was flattened in a storm. Today I show you how to DIY repair it so it will never fall down again.
You can become a Charlie DIYte Patron here
– https://www.patreon.com/charlieDIYte for exclusive behind the scenes content and access to my Discord chat forum.
0:00 Introduction
2:13 Protecting Fence Posts
3:05 Hole Digging Techniques
4:29 How to Concrete
5:37 Fence Rails
6:56 Feather Boards
8:23 Treating the Timber
10:19 Costings
10:50 Subscribe to Me!
Join the WeShop shopping revolution here https://app.we.shop/join-charliewhite, and start earning shares (20% of the value of what you buy) every time you shop. Also check out my exclusive posts under my Profile.** As a founder influencer on WeShop I do earn a small referral commission if you sign up using this link and my username.
TODAY’S TOOLKIT:
– Roughneck Mutt Pro demolition scraper 4 “/ 100mm https://geni.us/DL7DHLO (Amazon)
And here’s the legal bit I have to state: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
SUBSCRIBE – you can subscribe to my Channel here: https://bit.ly/3DEE2dI LET’S CONNECT!
Charlie DIYte
— Email: charliediyte@gmail.com
— https://www.facebook.com/charliediyte
— https://charliediyte.co.uk/
— https://www.instagram.com/charliediyte/
— https://twitter.com/CharlieDIYte
#DIY #fence #repair
At the end of the day it works. I've done tons of fencing in past life. You can get these concrete repair spurs. We have done both repairs. If I was going to say, what do I do if I need new fence. Concrete posts and concrete gravel boards. They last forever.
For me this was major overkill and time for a quick fix. I used post buddies (metal strips you hammer into the broken wood) to have a broken post fixed in about 20 minutes. Definitely not going to last as long as what you did here but if you're planning on replacing in a few years anyway why spend so much time making something that will last 20 years that you rip out before that.
"I haven't got time to sort this out, so I'm going to work out how to fix something which ultimately needs replacing."
Oof, I felt that!
Many years ago was told to use "Denzo" tape (greased cloth tape) on the post bottom at the wind and water line. Think it wolud stick better than the sleeeves. Not sure you can get this any more….as an apprentice working on a chlorine production plant it was used everywhere to stop corrosion!!
Hi Charlie. I recently used those fence post protectors , and found them not easy at all to get them to stick to the wood . Using a blowtorch and a wooden roller , still proved a difficult task . So I agree with you the use of these modern bitumen paints is the best way forward . Best wishes and kind regards as always ????????????????
We've had concrete fence posts and painted them with used engine oil. And also the wooden posts and fence panels. You can also paint concrete posts with wood stain. So they look better than off white.
I found if you use a blow torch on the bottoms of the posts and blacken them on the end and the part in the ground it works well preserving the post on the ground as it brings out the creosote in the wood
Concrete spurs are the best option all else is a matter of when not if… Failure…
But hey it's your time and money
Thanks for for video Charlie. Looks like a solid repair. What dust bag do you use on your cordless Ryobi circular saw? And is it just a friction fit? Thanks
A temporary permanent repair, the best kind ????
I recently had to move our gate four feet to one side and fretted endlessly over the job of setting my gate posts because it's not something I'd done before. Using eight foot poles I followed the two-foot rule – it seemed like you didn't have such deep holes for your your posts? Anyway, I rented an auger from Mark One Hire and it was a complete doddle making my holes and setting the posts. It actually made me wish I needed to set more fence posts!
You could also consider charring the posts over a fire/with a map gas torch instead of the bituminous paints/preserves before sinking them in the grounds. The charring protects the timber from decay and is a more natural alternative 🙂
Thanks as ever for the videos, Charlie. Take care
A "mil" is a thousandth of an inch. Not the same as a millimeter.
A few years ago I had to replace my fence. I tried to find a contractor to do it but my city is growing so fast that I couldn't get anyone to do the work. It's okay because I ended up with a better looking fence than if I paid someone to do the work for me. The old fence was the traditional post cemented in a hole with panels between.
I took a different approach with my new fence. I was able to find someone to take the old concrete out and put in new concrete deck piers that came about 5 cm above the ground. I made sure that the bottoms were flared to ensure they wouldn't heave with the frost (an important thing to worry about in Canada). I then used a newer product from Hoft that was being advertised as a privacy screen for decks and, after checking with the company, used it for my fence. I used four bolts to keep their aluminum posts attached to the concrete deck piers after I laid out where the posts would sit to make a straight line. Cedar deck planks were cut to length and fit between the posts. The included aluminum spacers keep the planks from touching one another. After the boards were placed then included post caps were installed. All of the aluminum parts are black.
The great part of the system is that if anything breaks, for example a board, all I have to do is take the post caps off a couple of posts, slide out the boards above the damaged board(s), replace the damaged board(s), and replace what I removed previously. If I need to get a large machine into my back yard it's also easy. Just remove the boards from two sections and remove a post (as it's bolted on). Since I had bought the cedar straight from a lumber yard I had to leave it out for a while before treating the wood in order to let the oils in the wood leave. Instead of putting UV protection oil on directly on the fence I ended up taking the planks out of each section so that I could treat all of the cedar and put an end grain treatment on the ends. I couldn't have done that with a regular fence, at least not without disassembling it and building it again.
If I ever build a fence again then I'm going to use Hoft for the posts. It's a little more time because every plank needs to be measured before cutting however it looks wonderful and has some advantages over traditional fencing.
Not like you didn't have enough on your plate Charlie…????♂
Great video once again, quick question for the average DIY’er are brushed drills and impact drivers ok?
I don’t know what the rules are in your county, but creosote posts could be an option. They are completely rot resistant and will last anywhere north of 40+ years. They are dark brown in colour and quite tarry. But they’ll blend nicely in if you stain your fence a dark cedar colour. Normally they aren’t available for consumer use just professional but you should be able to get your hands on some as farmers do quite easily. Just be careful when using them and avoid touching them too much once installed. It would probably only cost you £8 a post which is cheaper than the equivalent UC4 fencepost
Thanks for the educational video. Enjoyed that.